You wouldn’t wear the same size jacket as your best mate if it didn’t fit, so why settle for a “one-look-fits-all” beard or haircut? Your face shape is the starting point for grooming, and picking the right style is very important. Below is an easy guide to spotting your shape and choosing styles that highlight your best angles, minimise the bits you’re not wild about, and make morning styling faster.
Step 1: Find Your Face Shape (60-Second Mirror Test)
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Take a photo of your face, make sure your whole face is visible.
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Using your phones drawing feature, trace the outline of your face. It can also help to draw a line from your forehead to your chin, and another line between your cheekbones.
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Compare the drawing to the “big six” shapes below.
1. Oval — “The Safe Bet”
Tell-tale signs: Forehead slightly wider than the chin, softly rounded jaw, length about 1½ times the width.
Hair wins:
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Most styles work here. Messy quiff, tidy side-part, textured crop—feel free to experiment.
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Keep sides proportional; extreme undercuts can make the top look too long.
Beard wins:
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Light stubble to lumberjack length all suit.
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Try a short boxed beard or full beard faded at the sideburns for a modern finish.
2. Round — “Add the Angles”
Tell-tale signs: Width and length are similar; soft cheeks and jawline.
Hair wins:
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Anything that adds volume on top, and stays tight at the sides. Think pompadour, spiky crop, or textured quiff. You want to create a squarer top to balance the rounder jaw.
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A short fade starting above the ear draws the eye upward.
Beard wins:
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Lengthen the chin with a full beard to create a sharper looking jaw.
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Keep sideburns tapered so the face doesn’t widen out.
3. Square — “Soften the Jaw”
Tell-tale signs: Broad forehead, pronounced jaw angle, straight sides.
Hair wins:
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Mid-length layers, side part, or textured fringe will soften the strong lines.
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A low or medium fade prevents the head looking too boxy by leaving room to build weight on the sides.
Beard wins:
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Keep length but round the edges—a circle beard or a fuller style with slightly curved corners works wonders.
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Heavy stubble (the “designer” five-o’clock shadow) emphasises the jaw without sharpening it further.
4. Rectangle / Oblong — “Widen, Don’t Lengthen”
Tell-tale signs: Face is noticeably longer than it is wide; cheekbones, forehead, and jaw roughly the same width.
Hair wins:
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Side-swept fringe or a slick back that sits closer to the head.
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Avoid too much height (e.g., tall pompadours) that stretches the face further.
Beard wins:
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Grow the cheeks fuller while keeping the chin slightly shorter—think a corporate beard or a natural full beard squared off at the bottom.
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Even thick stubble on cheeks adds breadth.
5. Diamond — “Fill the Cheeks”
Tell-tale signs: Narrow forehead and chin with wide cheekbones.
Hair wins:
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Layered fringe or a textured crop that adds volume at the temples.
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Medium length with waves helps soften the widest point.
Beard wins:
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Grow the cheeks fuller while keeping the chin slightly shorter—think a corporate beard or a natural full beard squared off at the bottom.
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Even thick stubble on cheeks adds breadth.
6. Heart / Triangle — “Balance the Forehead”
Tell-tale signs: Forehead is the widest point; cheekbones taper to a narrow, sometimes pointy chin.
Hair wins:
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Medium-long styles with waves or curls to add volume around ears and jaw.
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Avoid tight fades that emphasise the upper width.
Beard wins:
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A full beard or heavy stubble builds bulk along the jaw line.
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A well-kept moustache can also balance the chin area.
Quick Styling Cheat-Sheet
| Face Shape | One-Line Hair Tip | One-Line Beard Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Oval | You’re the lucky one—experiment | Keep beard edges neat |
| Round | Height on top, tight sides | Add chin length, slim cheeks |
| Square | Texture & curves soften edges | Round the beard corners |
| Rectangle | Less height, more side volume | Fuller cheeks, trim chin |
| Diamond | Volume at temples | Bulk at jaw corners |
| Heart | Medium- Long without much volume | Fill jaw with fuller beard |
Product Pairs That Make Styling Easier
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Classic Beard Oil softens wiry hairs, no matter the style.
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Original Beard Balm tames stray hair and conditions skin.
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Clay Pomade adds solid hold, perfect for creating volume on round or diamond faces.
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Matte Paste delivers matte control, helps build volume and texture on top.
(Pair with our Salt Tonic and get 10% off; your mirror will notice.)
Final Word: Shape Isn’t Destiny—It’s a Shortcut
Face-shape rules are guidelines, not hard laws. If you love a style that “shouldn’t” work on your shape, own it. But when you’re looking for a quick confidence boost—or a roadmap for your barber appointment—let symmetry and balance be your compass.
Got questions before the big chop or first beard trim? Drop us a DM @apothecary87 or check out our ever expanding video series on head shapes and hair styles. Your best look is one trim, clip, or swipe of balm away.
If you'd like to learn more about caring for your beard, check out our Ultimate Guide to Caring for Your Beard
All images courtesy of mensfashioner.com
